Many of the tailors of suits in the industry had complained about the term “bespoke” when the clothes were actually “made to measure.” Tailors of the Savile Row did this in 2008 to the Advertising Standards Authority (ASA), and since then, many of the other clothing brands are using the actual process of made to measure. You can read more about the meaning of the work bespoke on this site here.
The tailors may have believed that the word bespoke has been used to mislead customers to purchase clothes. However, the complaint to the ASA was rejected. Fortunately, the move paved the way for tailors to clear the differences between bespoke and made-to-measure garments.
About Made to Measure
The outfits and suits that are made to measure are sewn and cut by a machine. The machine uses an existing pattern or design that’s usually adjusted for the customers’ needs and measurements. The design and choice of fabrics are limited, and clients may have fewer fittings than bespoke.
Today, the clients’ measurements can be taken in various ways, including new body scanning and other technologies. The production is much quicker because there are machines involved. The suits can be made in just a matter of weeks and not months. Garments may be cheaper than bespoke, but they are priced higher than the ones ready to wear.
Definition of Bespoke
These clothes and garments are usually made and cut by hand. All the patterns and designs are created from scratch, and the entire dress is unique to the customer. The design elements and choice of fabrics are beautiful and luxurious, and they are superior to the other types.
With bespoke clothing, it’s expected to attend several fittings until both the customers and tailors are delighted. Some of these are the bespoke suits in New York that give the impression of luxury and uniqueness. They take longer to make because they are hand-sewn, and there are many choices for the fabrics.
Other Differences Between the Two Garments
1. Fabric Cuts, Making of Patterns, and Production
The made-to-measure clothes are sewn and cut by a machine. This is based on an existing pattern, but it will still consider the customers’ shapes and measurements. They have adjusted accordingly for proper fit. As an example, the original length of a pair of trousers may be shorter, so a few are added to make it longer.
Another is the shoulder width of shirts that can become wider with the help of expert tailors.
Bespoke garments make use of unique patterns of paper, and they are fairly new. They are made according to an individual’s wishes, and they are cut completely from scratch. There’s no pre-existing pattern and no modifications involved.
Everything is sewn and cut by hand, and this involves experts who are highly skilled in their craft. With the bespoke garments, even the intricacies of the buttonholes are made by hand, and there’s no machine involved. A team of craftsmen and specialists will usually make everything from the trousers to the waistcoats. The result is a suit that is unique and exceptional.
2. Selection of Fabrics
In made to measure varieties, the clothes are more limited. The choice of fabrics is much more limited, and the entire process is simple. Generally, these fabrics are produced and offered by a couple of mills, which are unlikely to be expensive and luxurious.
When it comes to bespoke clothing, particularly in men’s suits, know that they can choose from thousands of materials. There’s a specific library that covers around 8 to 12 different mills. The fabric feels soft and silky to the skin, and it’s very comfortable to wear.
3. Design and Customization
Companies that offer made-to-measure clothes will be the ones to choose the design elements and custom options available. These are more affordable because the design is more basic and limited. These varieties depend on the design of pre-existing patterns where you can change the thread colors, placket, pocket, cuff, buttons, and collars.
The customization and design options for the bespoke garments are limitless. They are made through endless consultations with an expert tailor. The design may be more flamboyant and more experimental, but the finished clothing is one-of-a-kind and stunning overall. A blank canvas is often used for these kinds of scenarios.
4. The Overall Fitting Process
Made to Measure items may require one to two fittings. In other cases, online shops will need you to send your measurements, and there may be no fittings required if one orders on these platforms. With the bespoke, clients are entitled to have several fitting appointments with their gowns and suits so they can be refined and perfected as months go by. It’s just natural for the custom-made dresses to have a superior fit compared to the ready-to-wear clothes.
Made to measure may mean that it’s the customers’ responsibility to know the numbers, make comparisons with clothing inside their wardrobe that fits them, or perform body scanning through technologies and mobile apps. An employee from a local tailor may also make these measurements at their premises but this is a one-time occasion only. The quality may not be as superior as bespoke and there may be a few loose threads if one is not careful when choosing tailors.
On the other hand, the first appointment of bespoke clothing will involve discussing and selecting a fabric. A dedicated staff will usually oversee this production. There are photographs applied, so the expert tailor will likely remember how the customer holds themselves and if they have a way of standing. Bespoke creations may involve around twenty to thirty different measurements in various parts of the body.
On the 2 to 5 fittings, this will take a span of a few weeks. This is when the tailor and the client are both satisfied with the fit and shape of the outfit. If you are constantly making your appointments with the same shop, the number of appointments you may take will be lesser. Keeping your original patterns and re-ordering a similar garment may also make things faster.
